So many factors go into having a happy, healthy axolotl. As we know, they will eat just about anything that fits in their mouth (including each other!) But that doesn't mean that they should.
We are here to help with recommendations for the most appropriate foods at every size and stage of life, and to provide multiple options for those picky, picky eaters (like Mushu!)
Different sizes/ages of axolotl should be fed different things that are best for their nutrition and development. Also, some foods are okay occasionally but not all the time or as the staple to their diet, just like us.
For axolotls fresh out the egg, as we like to say! 1" or smaller:
These babies should have constant access to food. Most common foods are live baby brine shrimp [shrimp hatchery kit HERE if you get eggs instead] and live microworms [culture linked]. If they have access to both of these, live bloodworms can also be supplemented. Frozen baby brine shrimp are ok, just dissolve the cubes in water. To help the littlest lotls, you can carefully use a turkey baster to introduce these foods, as they're not pros at hunting them down just yet. Vinegar eels & white worms are also easy options.
For axolotls 1" - 3"/4" big:
Finally starting to look like real critters, and have legs that can truly help them out with getting to their food. You can now introduce live blackworms, a fan favorite. live brine shrimp are still a great call, and as always, bloodworms can be fed occasionally. At any age, an axolotl's diet should not mainly consist of bloodworms. They will be fed, but not getting enough nutrition. This is how you end up with very skinny, very sad axolotls! THESE water daphnia are also a great choice.
For axolotls over 4" but not quite fully grown!
Here comes the real fun - hand feeding the lotls their worms! Earthworms and red wigglers are great - keep in mind, most will prefer smaller pieces or they will spit them back out as they're too hard to wrangle, so we recommend cutting them to about the width of their head. When cut, some worms produce a chemical as self-preservation which isn't harmful to your axolotl, but they may not like the taste very much. Figure out your axolotl's likes and dislikes as you go, they're all a little different! Hand-feeding them with feeding tongs like THESE by dangling the worm in front of them is helpful to really motivate them. Remember, you don't want to leave uneaten food in their tank or it will spike your ammonia. At this stage, you can also add in pellets to their diet. We recommend THESE. Using tongs and dropping them in front of their face so they can track them down will help. Sometimes they're just not in the mood to fight their wiggly worm for dinner.
Adult axolotls:
Woohoo, they made it to the big league! Everything a juvenile can eat and more, but now less, since their metabolisms have slowed down a bit. Raw shrimp and raw salmon can now also be used but beware: must be FROZEN to quarantine, and this should be occasional. Usually, salmon is used if they're a little backed up and need some help with their tummy.
Tips and tricks:
If you're interested in producing your own food for your axolotls, such as with a worm farm, we will discuss that in another blog post/article.
Quarantining food is always recommended! Your little lotls are very prone to illnesses in captivity. In addition, rinsing worms off in primed water is a must.
Feed your axolotl as much as they want to eat in a few minutes. They will tell you when they're done, trust us! Remove any uneaten food from the tank to prevent ammonia spikes.
Introducing different foods at a young age (when appropriate for their size) and keeping a variety is good for their nutrition and will also help prevent a picky eater. Some are just extra special that way, though!
Juveniles should be fed every day. Adults only need to be fed every other day, to every 3 days. You will learn their habits and preferences as you bond with them. Hand feeding is a great way to do that! You'll also learn ways to feed them that encourage the best results.
If you have multiple axolotls, feed them separately and far away from one another to prevent injury. Keep them well fed to prevent them from wanting to nibble on one another instead!
Anything freeze dried or that has an exoskeleton (like a mealworm) should never be fed to your axolotl.
Never use items you use for your axolotls or their tanks for anything else.
If your axolotl doesn't want to eat, don't panic! Sometimes they're still digesting or just not in the mood. If you see other changes that are concerning in their appearance or behavior, reach out to your local exotic pet veterinarian.
If your axolotl's bottom half is floating, they may be constipated. Putting them in cooler water will sometimes help this and if its persistent, adult axolotls can be fed the previously frozen, raw salmon we discussed.
If you ever need help or have questions, always feel free to reach out to us here. We're here to help.
Please note that products here are recommended by us, tried and true - but are not sold by us. You are welcome to do some research into alternative options for products - just make sure they're axolotl safe! Aquarium/fish safe does NOT = axolotl safe. We do, however, receive a small commission if you use the links above to make your purchase. As an amazon affiliate, I earn commission from qualifying purchases.
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