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Tank Cycling: Your All-Inclusive Guide for an Axolotl

Mar 30

6 min read

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Establishing a Stable Nitrogen Cycle in Your New Aquarium for Your Axolotl


Okay, so you've decided to take the leap and get an axolotl - congratulations! But, you're having trouble with where to start and setting up a tank with a stable cycle sounds daunting and confusing. That's what WE are here for!


Axolotls, the fascinating aquatic amphibians, require a stable nitrogen cycle in their aquarium to thrive and survive. As a responsible axolotl owner, establishing a healthy and balanced aquatic environment is paramount to their well-being. Tank cycling is the cornerstone of achieving this goal and ensures the removal of harmful compounds that can lead to health issues. It will also save YOU time and effort in the day-to-day care of your new pet, so do it for you BOTH!


The nitrogen cycle is a crucial biological process that converts toxic ammonia and nitrite into less harmful nitrate. Here's a comprehensive guide to establish a stable nitrogen cycle in your new aquarium to provide a healthy environment for your axolotl. This article will provide new axolotl owners with an in-depth understanding of tank cycling and its essential steps.



Things You Will Need (At This Stage):

*If you are still trying to create your full setup and aren't sure where to start, check out our Comprehensive Tank Setup Guide Here for more detailed help and suggestions.


  • Your minimum 40 gallon aquarium

  • Water (Details & Tips for this below)

  • Filters (See HERE for details)

  • Bottled Nitrifying Bacteria (Click HERE for our recommendation)

  • Bottled Water Primer/Dechlorinator (Click HERE for our recommendation)

  • Bottled Ammonia Chloride (Click HERE for our recommendation)

  • Air Stone (Click HERE for our recommendation)

  • Air Pump & Tubing [Note: You will also need a second air pump & tubing for your filter if you're using a sponge filter.] (Click HERE for our recommendation)

  • Water testing kit (Click HERE for our recommendation)

  • Your choice of substrate (See HERE for details)

  • Your choice of decor (See HERE for details)

  • Live Plants (See HERE for details)

  • Optional (but helpful): Aquarium Water Heater (See HERE for our recommendation)

  • Optional (but helpful): Filter media (See HERE for our recommendation)

  • Things like fans/chillers, your water thermometer, and more that are detailed in our aquarium setup guide are part of your tank set up but not necessary during cycling, but should be added before introducing your axolotl. We will discuss this at the end of the article.

  • Important: Any chemicals you use should be checked and confirmed to be safe for axolotls. Aquarium and fish safe does NOT = Axolotl safe. Especially those containing Aloe, such as StressCoat.



1. Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle:


The nitrogen cycle is a vital biological process that occurs within an aquarium and is crucial for the health of its inhabitants. Fish, invertebrates, and other organisms excrete ammonia, a toxic byproduct of metabolism. Beneficial bacteria, known as nitrifying bacteria, convert ammonia into nitrite, which is then further converted into nitrate by another group of bacteria. Nitrate, in low concentrations, is less harmful and can be utilized by plants as fertilizer.


Breakdown:

The nitrogen cycle involves three main steps:


Nitrification: Bacteria convert ammonia (excreted by your axolotl and other organisms, like decaying plants or food sources) into nitrite.


Nitrification (Again): Different bacteria then convert nitrITE into nitrATE.


Denitrification: Nitrate is removed from the water through live plant absorption, by anaerobic bacteria in the substrate, AND your regular water changes.



3. Setting Up Your Aquarium (Before Water):

Your axolotl should NOT be in the aquarium at this stage.


If you have your axolotl already at home but need help with tubbing, see our article here:

Axolotl Tubbing Guide


See our Comprehensive Tank Setup Guide Here for help setting up your aquarium prior to adding your water. This includes substrates, filters, decor items and hides, live plants, air stones/air pumps, and more.


2. Cycling Your Aquarium:

Your axolotl should NOT be in the aquarium at this stage.


Fishless Cycling:


  1. Adding water: Add your water to a large container or bucket and treat it using the instructions on your water primer to remove chlorine prior to putting it in the tank. This is to prevent chlorine from killing any bacteria in your tank, on your decor, or in your filters or media. Thankfully, during cycling, you don't yet have to worry about cooling your water to a safe temperature prior to adding it. Be sure to test your water source. Typically, just tap water is recommended (after treating.) Distilled water or water from a reverse osmosis system lacks important minerals that axolotls need in their environment. They can be used and "re-mineralized" if necessary, using a product like THIS ONE. Additionally, distilled water typically has an acidic PH that is not within a safe level for an axolotl. If you use a well system, having your well water checked prior to using it as your water source is recommended. It is debated whether or not you should add your plants during cycling, or wait until after. Some argue that the ammonia will kill your plants, while others argue that the plants are crucial for managing nitrate levels and provide a great surface for beneficial bacteria to colonize. This is a decision you'll have to test out, and make on your own.

  2. At this point, your chosen filters should be on and running. Using your air stone during cycling will help aerate the tank (like your little lotl, bacteria need oxygen, too!) If you've chosen to use an aquarium heater during cycling, this will be the time to turn it on - bacteria grow best and fastest in warmer environments.

  3. Introducing Beneficial Bacteria: Using the instructions on your bottled nitrifying bacteria based on the volume of water, dose your water somewhere with flow - like underneath the output of a hang on back filter - to ensure even mixing.

  4. Introducing an Ammonia Source: Add an ammonia source (e.g., pure ammonia solution like THIS is recommended) to the aquarium to simulate the ammonia your axolotl will produce once it's in the tank. You want to dose the tank to no more than 4 parts per million (PPM) including any levels already present. This is, on average, the daily amount your axolotl will produce once it's in the tank. More than that will likely stall your cycle at any given time. For help with ammonia measuring, use an ammonia calculator online like THIS ONE.

  5. Check your water parameters using your water test kit daily. Steps 3 and 4 should be repeated every day, but remember not to dose your tank with more ammonia if it's already at 4 PPM.

  6. As you repeat your steps and test daily, you should be seeing ammonia decrease, nitrites increase, then nitrates increase at first. This should be visible on your tests after 24 hours of dosing back to 4 PPM of ammonia. See optimal ranges below. Water changes can be used to help if any of your levels get too high.


Aim for the following consistent ranges for axolotls:


* Ammonia: 0 ppm

* Nitrite: 0 ppm

* Nitrate: <20 ppm (5-20 ppm should be showing on your tests once cycled)

* pH: 7.4 to 7.6 ( -- to -- is acceptable)


7. The 3 Day Test: Once you're repeating your steps daily and seeing optimal ranges of your ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, you're ready to do the 3-day test. Dose to 4 PPM of ammonia, and get your optimal results after 24 hours 3 days in a row. If you're successful, congratulations! Your tank is cycled.

8. If you're struggling, seeded media from an already cycled tank can be helpful in moving things along. Additionally, starting your own with filter media like this can be incredibly helpful. Be mindful of PH levels when you get into filter media sources.


5. Patience and Consistency:


Establishing a stable nitrogen cycle can take several weeks to months. Be patient and consistent with your testing and water changes. Avoid overfeeding or overstocking your aquarium, as these can disrupt the cycle. We recommend feeding your axolotl until they're full, then removing any remaining food sources they did not consume. Frequent spot cleaning using a turkey baster can also prevent premature spikes in ammonia, and keep your water change requirements less frequent.


For help with acclimating your axolotl to their new tank, check out our article here:

Axolotl Tubbing Guide

*Remember their ideal temperatures! If you were using a water heater during cycling, remove it and replace with your chiller/fans. Do not introduce your axolotl until the water is cooled to a safe temperature.


For help with maintaining your stable cycle & aquarium maintenance after your initial cycle establishment, check out our article here:

Axolotl Aquarium Maintenance & Keeping a Stable Cycle

*Do not continue dosing with ammonia once your axolotl is in the tank!


Conclusion:


A stable nitrogen cycle is essential for the health and well-being of your axolotl. By following these steps, you can establish a balanced aquarium environment that minimizes toxic waste accumulation and provides a thriving habitat for your fascinating amphibian companion. You will also reduce your time and effort put in to keeping them in safe waters, happy and healthy! Remember to monitor water parameters regularly and make necessary adjustments to maintain optimal conditions.


Please note that products here are recommended by us, tried and true - but are not sold by us. You are welcome to do some research into alternative options for products - just make sure they're axolotl safe! Aquarium/fish safe does NOT = axolotl safe. We do, however, receive a small commission if you use the links above to make your purchase. As an amazon affiliate, I earn commission from qualifying purchases.

Mar 30

6 min read

2

451

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